christmas in the land of the luminarias

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In December, all around New Mexico, brown paper bags line the stucco tops of walls, the walkways leading toward front doors, and the edges of gardens. To the uninitiated, this might a strange configuration of objects more commonly used for carrying school lunches.

luminarias on a pueblo wall

But come nightfall, the bags come to light, transforming from paper bags to luminarias[1], dazzling Christmas light decorations unique to the American Southwest.[2]

At Christmastime, New Mexico becomes a land of lights, snowcapped peaks, and red chili peppers strung together and hanging from pueblo walls and lampposts.

a train of chili peppers hanging on a pueblo wall

But Albuquerque particularly leans into the lights. In addition to the traditional luminarias, Albuquerque’s Botanical Garden also hosts the River of Lights. This year’s was the 26th annual light show. Despite spending almost every Christmas in Albuquerque for over 20 years, I had never been before. Probably because my mother had gone to the River of Lights without me many years ago and declared herself unimpressed.

But over the years it has grown to be something quite spectacular. Now the largest light show in New Mexico, it has even gotten national recognition on the Great Christmas Light Fight on ABC. My mom saw that on the local news one night and decided that this year we had to go.

We were not disappointed. Spread across a 1.5 mile path, the exhibition boasts 800 unique light displays, animated, and 3D sculptures. A family of penguins greeted us upon entry.

light sculpture of penguins

Then we strolled through a twinkle-lit savanna.

light sculptures of elephants

Strolled by a tree of parrots.

light sculpture of parrots in a tree

Went back in time millions of years to the Jurassic and gazed up at a brontosaurus.

light sculpture of a brontosaurus, reflected in a pond

Watched a cow get abducted by aliens.

light sculpture of a UFO and cows

Really the whole thing was magnificently done and great fun. It’s also for a good cause! In 2022, the event attracted over 120,000 visitors, raising over $1 million to support Albuquerque’s zoo and associated institutions.  

A belated Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year to all! I’ll see you in 2024.


[1] Apparently they are called farolitos in northern New Mexico. My family lives in Albuquerque where they are called luminarias. I’m not from there, so I just learned researching this post that the naming is controversial.

[2] Ok, maybe not anymore. All traditions spread these days.